Key Takeaways
- The suit has historically been a symbol of power, masculinity, and authority, but its significance has evolved over time.
- The rise of business casual in the 1990s led to a decline in suit-wearing, but it remains a staple in formal and professional settings.
- Politicians use suits to convey trust, authority, and relatability, with different styles and brands conveying different messages.
- The suit can be seen as a form of subtle drag, performing masculinity and proximity to power.
- The choice of suit can be a deliberate attempt to signal legitimacy, respectability, and cultural background.
Introduction to the Suit
Growing up in London in the 2000s, I was surrounded by suits. They were a common sight in the City, where businessmen would rush to and fro, and in Hyde Park, where fathers would play football with their children. Even in school, we wore cheap grey suits as our uniform. The suit has always been a costume of seriousness, signaling power and performance. However, as I grew older, I noticed that my generation seemed to wear suits less and less, and they had all but disappeared from my consciousness. That was until I saw the newly elected New York City mayor, Zohran Mamdani, who was sworn in wearing a sober black overcoat, crisp white shirt, and an Eri silk tie.
The Evolution of the Suit
According to men’s fashion writer Derek Guy, the suit has been dying a slow death since the end of World War II, with the real dip arriving in the 1990s with the rise of business casual. Today, the suit is only worn in the most formal locations, such as weddings, funerals, and court appearances. Guy notes that politicians wear suits to convey authority and trust, but also to seem relatable and win public confidence. The suit has become a subtle form of drag, performing masculinity, authority, and proximity to power. As Guy explains, "Since we’re also living in a liberal democracy, politicians want to seem relatable, because they’re trying to get your votes."
The Suit as a Symbol of Power
The suit has a long history in politics, with many politicians using it to convey a sense of authority and power. From Barack Obama’s infamous tan suit to Justin Trudeau’s polished, tailored sheen, the suit has been used to define a politician’s image. As Dr. Matthew Sterling Benson-Strohmayer, an economic historian at the London School of Economics, notes, the suit is not neutral and has a long career as a uniform of political power. Mamdani’s choice of suit, a mid-level, modern suit from Suitsupply, is significant, as it taps into a studied modesty and respectability politics. The suit becomes a way of signaling legitimacy, particularly for those who may be seen as outsiders.
The Suit as a Form of Protective Armor
The suit can also be seen as a form of protective armor, particularly for those who are not part of the dominant culture. As Benson-Strohmayer notes, "If you’re Brown, you aren’t going to get taken as seriously in these white spaces." The suit becomes a way of signaling legitimacy and respectability, particularly for those who may be seen as outsiders. This is evident in the way that politicians like Mamdani, who is a Muslim child of immigrants, use the suit to convey a sense of authority and power. The suit becomes a way of navigating the codes associated with power and respectability.
Code-Switching and the Suit
The suit can also be seen as a form of code-switching, where individuals switch between different identities and cultural norms to fit in. As David Kuchta, the author of The Three-Piece Suit and Modern Masculinity, notes, Mamdani’s suit is symbolic of his attempt to conform to what many American voters look for as a sign of leadership, while also walking a tightrope to avoid looking like an elitist selling out his non-mainstream roots and values. The suit becomes a way of navigating the tension between insider and outsider, and the codes associated with power and respectability. As Kuchta notes, "White males can remain unnoticed," but when women and ethnic minorities "attempt to gain the power that suits represent," they must carefully navigate the codes associated with them.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the suit is a complex and multifaceted symbol that conveys different meanings depending on the context and the individual wearing it. From its historical association with power and masculinity to its modern use as a form of subtle drag, the suit remains a staple in formal and professional settings. As Mamdani’s sartorial choices make clear, appearance is never neutral in politics, and the suit can be a deliberate attempt to signal legitimacy, respectability, and cultural background. The suit remains a powerful symbol, and its evolution and significance will continue to be shaped by the cultural and social context in which it is worn.