Key Takeaways:
- Up Helly Aa is a unique fire festival celebrated in Shetland, Scotland, which honors the archipelago’s Scandinavian influences and history.
- The festival involves a procession of Vikings in homemade costumes, a torch-lit parade, and the ritualistic burning of a galley.
- The event has a rich history dating back to the 19th century and has evolved over time to become a celebration of Shetland’s Nordic heritage and the return of the light after winter.
- The festival is a major event in Shetland, with thousands of people attending and participating in the festivities.
- Up Helly Aa is a symbol of renewal, with the burning of the galley representing the impermanence of things and the cycle of life.
Introduction to Up Helly Aa
Beyond a misty veil, dawn breaks above Shetland, and the days feel as if they never quite get going at this time of year. However, the locals have found a unique way of passing the time, honoring the deep-rooted Scandinavian influences on Shetland’s culture and history. A rattling and murmuring begins to grow, and a marching horde of lusty Vikings in homemade costumes emerges, brandishing axes and round shields, beards flowing over leather breastplates. They carry turquoise standards bearing the flag of Haraldr láfsson, the 13th-century king of Mann and the Isles, and sing battle songs of raven flags flying in distant lands, of blazing torches and Vikings ruling over oceans vast.
The History of Up Helly Aa
The history of Up Helly Aa is a fascinating one, dating back to the 19th century. After Shetland’s young men returned from the Napoleonic wars, they channeled their energy into tar barrelling, the practice of stuffing wooden barrels with straw and tar, setting them alight, and parading them through the town. Rival "squads" of tar barrellers would often brawl in the streets, leading to chaos and disorder. The authorities eventually did away with the tar barrelling and replaced it with the building and burning of the galley, reshaping Up Helly Aa into a celebration of Shetland’s Nordic heritage and the new year.
The Festival Preparations
As the festival approaches, the locals prepare for the big day. A dragon-prowed, glacial blue longship is built, pulled on ropes by a team of dozens strong. The galley will be paraded through the streets of Lerwick before being ritualistically set ablaze, the centrepiece of Up Helly Aa. The procession, with the galley in its wake, disappears round corners, and the watching public is left to wonder at the spectacle. The Vikings in the main procession, known as the Jarl Squad, spend the day attending to various civic duties, including a boozy brunch with local luminaries, visits to schools and hospitals, and a lush, louche luncheon.
The Torch Procession and Galley Burning
As the day wears on, the torch procession begins, with the Jarl Squad and their entourage carrying blazing torches through the streets. They are followed by hundreds of men in fancy dress, the modern incarnation of the original tar-barrelling squads. The procession files into a play park in the centre of town, where the galley lies waiting, doused in paraffin. The Jarl Squad and their entourage throw their lit torches into the belly of the boat, and before long, it is engulfed in flames, warming the watching crowd. As the fire dies down, the spectators file away into the warmth of the town’s afterparty venues, for a night of comedy skits, folk dancing, soup, sandwiches, and much taking of drink.
The Symbolism of Up Helly Aa
The burning of the galley is a powerful symbol of renewal, representing the impermanence of things and the cycle of life. As Lyall Gair, a former leader of the Up Helly Aa procession, says, "It’s a symbol of renewal. We just build another one next year. We start anew." The festival is a reminder that even in the darkest of times, there is always the promise of new beginnings and the return of the light. Up Helly Aa is a unique and special event, one that celebrates the rich history and culture of Shetland, and the resilience and community of its people.
Conclusion
Up Helly Aa is a truly unique and unforgettable experience, a celebration of Shetland’s Nordic heritage and the return of the light after winter. The festival is a testament to the creativity, community, and resilience of the people of Shetland, and a reminder of the importance of tradition and cultural heritage. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, Up Helly Aa is an event not to be missed, a chance to experience the magic and wonder of this special place.