Key Takeaways
- Elazar Sontag, the new food critic at The Washington Post, is rethinking traditional restaurant criticism by ending anonymity and restoring the star rating system.
- Sontag aims to make restaurant criticism more accessible and inclusive, using different platforms to reach a wider audience.
- He believes that showing his face and being transparent is essential in making restaurant criticism feel more approachable and relevant to everyone.
- Sontag’s approach to food criticism focuses on the cultural and historical significance of restaurants, rather than just their cuisine.
- He highlights the importance of community spaces, such as the Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria, which offers more than just food, but also a unique cultural experience.
Introduction to Elazar Sontag
Elazar Sontag, the new food critic at The Washington Post, is bringing a fresh perspective to the world of restaurant criticism. In a recent interview with NPR’s Morning Edition, Sontag discussed his approach to food criticism and how he plans to make it more accessible and inclusive. Unlike his predecessor, Tom Sietsema, who held the role for 25 years, Sontag has chosen to ditch anonymity and restore the star rating system. This change, he believes, is not only generational but also practical, allowing him to connect with readers and restaurants on a more personal level.
Rethinking Restaurant Criticism
Sontag’s decision to end anonymity is driven by his desire to make restaurant criticism feel more approachable and relevant to everyone. He believes that by showing his face and being transparent, he can build trust with readers and restaurants, and create a more inclusive and diverse conversation about food. "The big consideration for me is how do we make restaurant criticism feel like something that everyone needs, that it doesn’t feel out of reach," Sontag said. By using different platforms and being more visible, Sontag hopes to reach a wider audience and make restaurant criticism more accessible to people from all backgrounds.
A New Approach to Food Criticism
Sontag’s approach to food criticism is not just about reviewing restaurants, but also about understanding the cultural and historical significance of the spaces he visits. He believes that restaurants are not just places to eat, but also community hubs that reflect the identity and values of a city. To illustrate this point, Sontag took Morning Edition’s Leila Fadel and her team to Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria at The United House of Prayer for All People, a community space that serves soul food and is known for its vibrant atmosphere. Sontag had visited the cafeteria several times before, and was impressed by its unique character and the sense of community that it fosters. "The layers of what makes this place unique puts it on par with any of the most serious restaurants in the city," he said. "It’s almost a living piece of history."
The Importance of Community Spaces
Sontag’s focus on community spaces like Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria highlights the importance of these establishments in shaping the culinary identity of a city. These spaces are often overlooked by traditional food critics, who tend to focus on high-end restaurants and trendy eateries. However, Sontag believes that community spaces like Saint’s Paradise Cafeteria offer a unique cultural experience that is worth exploring and celebrating. By highlighting these spaces, Sontag hopes to promote a more inclusive and diverse understanding of food and culture, and to encourage readers to explore the rich culinary landscape of their city.
Conclusion
In conclusion, Elazar Sontag’s approach to restaurant criticism is a breath of fresh air in a industry that has traditionally been dominated by anonymity and exclusivity. By ending anonymity and restoring the star rating system, Sontag is making restaurant criticism more accessible and inclusive, and promoting a more diverse and nuanced understanding of food and culture. His focus on community spaces and the cultural significance of restaurants is a welcome change, and one that is likely to resonate with readers who are looking for a more authentic and meaningful culinary experience. As Sontag continues to explore the culinary landscape of Washington, it will be exciting to see how his approach to restaurant criticism evolves and shapes the way we think about food and culture.
