Key Takeaways
- The Outback Xplorer train runs once a week from Broken Hill to Sydney, a 13.5-hour journey that costs $70.
- The train passes through over 1,100km of NSW, offering scenic views of the desert and countryside.
- The carriages are outdated, with no charging outlets or onboard internet, and limited phone reception.
- The average occupancy of the train is 39% heading towards Sydney and 48% in the other direction.
- A second weekly rail service has been proposed to boost tourism, but has been rejected due to limited rolling stock.
Introduction to the Outback Xplorer
The Outback Xplorer train is a weekly service that runs from Broken Hill to Sydney, a journey that takes 13.5 hours and costs $70. The train passes through over 1,100km of NSW, offering scenic views of the desert and countryside. As I wait on the platform, I notice a mineral taste in the air and a blackened, tumorous slag heap in the distance. The train is not one I can afford to miss, as it only runs once a week, and I have arrived early to ensure I don’t miss it.
The Journey Begins
As the train departs, I notice a woman sitting in the shade of the waiting train with a wheel-able display of Christian books and pamphlets. The train attendant jokes with her about the cold weather, and she protests that it was warm until the train pulled up. I’m on the train as a tourist, partly because of my love for the 1971 film Wake in Fright, which was filmed in Broken Hill. The film is about the dark side of the Australian national character, but also about the lack of affordable regional transport.
The Cost of Travel
The cost of air travel from Broken Hill is prohibitive, often hundreds of dollars for a one-way trip. To drive to Sydney without stopping would take 13 hours, and there’s a daily bus to Dubbo for $50, which offers a rail connection to Sydney, but it leaves at 3.45am. The Outback Xplorer is a more civilized option, but the carriages are outdated, with no charging outlets or onboard internet, and limited phone reception. The train’s menu is limited, with options such as meat pies and sausage rolls, and I settle for a plain sausage roll.
The View from the Train
As the train rolls out of Broken Hill, I notice the scenery outside the window. Sheep and wild goats flee from our path across a wide, shimmering plain. A red twister cuts through the desert, and I see an emu that appears to be chasing a kangaroo. The landscape shifts subtly as we traverse the state, with rough tracks becoming gravel and then asphalt roads, and red dirt being replaced by ploughed fields. There are brief opportunities to stretch legs at stations such as Ivanhoe and Condobolin.
The Demographic of Fellow Travellers
The demographic of my fellow travellers definitely skews older, as evidenced by a minor bomb scare when someone’s travel alarm clock goes off from the direction of the luggage rack. The train is used by locals, including my nearest onboard neighbour, who has children living in Melbourne, Sydney, and on the NSW Central Coast. She says flights to Sydney and even to Adelaide can cost from $300 to $400 one-way. The train is also used by tourists, including those who come to see the scenic views of the desert and countryside.
The Midpoint of the Journey
At Parkes, the midpoint of the journey, the "Dubbo crew" makes way for the "Sydney crew". The landscape has already shifted subtly, with rough tracks becoming gravel and then asphalt roads, and red dirt being replaced by ploughed fields. The train winds gently through the hills and fertile valleys of the central tablelands, with lush green pastures and highland cows. There are moments of intense beauty, but also intense boredom, and by the time we reach the final stretch of the journey, I’m ready to get off and never get back on.
The Final Stretch
As the train approaches Sydney, I notice the contrast between the regional train network and the city’s metro line. Tens of billions of dollars have been invested in making the final city stretch convenient, while the regional network has limited rolling stock and outdated carriages. The train arrives at Sydney’s Central station on schedule at 9.30pm, and I’m whisked away into the night at high speed. The transport department tells me that a second weekly service is not currently being considered, so if you’re travelling to Broken Hill, you may have to stay a while.
Conclusion
The Outback Xplorer train is a unique and scenic way to travel from Broken Hill to Sydney, but it has its limitations. The carriages are outdated, and the train only runs once a week. However, the scenic views of the desert and countryside make the journey worth it, and the train is a vital service for locals and tourists alike. As I reflect on my journey, I realize that the Outback Xplorer is not just a mode of transport, but an experience that offers a glimpse into the heart of Australia.
