Key Takeaways:
- The Suffolk coast is experiencing aggressive coastal erosion due to climate-exacerbated storms, with over 40 hectares of land lost to the sea.
- The area is home to a variety of unique landscapes, including beaches, marshes, heathland, and villages.
- The coast path between Lowestoft and Southwold has been largely rerouted inland due to erosion, and visitors must be cautious when walking along the coast.
- The area is rich in history and wildlife, with attractions such as the atmospheric ruins of St Andrew’s Church and the beautiful Benacre Broad.
- Visitors can stay in low-carbon cottages and cabins, such as the Kraken lodge at Still Southwold, which are designed to be movable in case of further erosion.
Introduction to the Suffolk Coast
The Suffolk coast is a unique and fragile landscape, with its stunning beaches, marshes, and heathland threatened by the constant erosion caused by climate-exacerbated storms. As I arrived at the Still Southwold, a former farm in Easton Bavents, I was struck by the dramatic storm-surging North Sea and the great black-backed gulls circling nearby. The owner, Anne Jones, described the challenges of living on a coast that is rapidly receding, with the family business no longer being a viable farm due to the erosion of over 40 hectares of land.
Exploring the Coastline
As I set out to explore the coastline, I was aware of the need to be cautious due to the erosion. The path I had chosen was only walkable at low tide, and I was warned by a fellow hiker about the storm surge and the unpredictable nature of the North Sea. The coast path between Lowestoft and Southwold has been largely rerouted inland, and I had to navigate through a mix of beach walking and inland routes. Despite the challenges, the scenery was breathtaking, with the brightly painted beach huts and the heaving, uncontainable ocean behind them creating a striking contrast.
Historical Landmarks and Wildlife
As I walked along the coast, I came across several historical landmarks, including the atmospheric ruins of St Andrew’s Church, which stands on the cliffs above Benacre. The church, which dates back to the 14th century, is now just a tall tower and a smaller thatched building, with the old octagonal carved font inside. I also visited Benacre Broad, a beautiful and fragile lake surrounded by woods and marshes, which is home to a variety of wildlife, including resident warblers and salt-bleached tree trunks. The area is also rich in history, with the author H Rider Haggard having spent several summers in a holiday home on the cliffs in Kessingland, where he was visited by his friend Rudyard Kipling.
Accommodation and Activities
For those looking to visit the Suffolk coast, there are several options for accommodation, including the low-carbon cottages and cabins at Still Southwold. The Kraken lodge, where I stayed, was a stylish and comfortable wooden cabin with stunning views of the North Sea. Visitors can also enjoy a range of activities, including walking, birdwatching, and reflexology treatments at the sea-view sauna. The area is also home to several excellent restaurants and cafes, including the Swan in Southwold, which serves a range of local specialties, including port-laced mulled wine and creamy Baron Bigod brie.
The Impact of Erosion
The erosion of the Suffolk coast is a pressing issue, with the constant threat of storms and rising sea levels posing a significant challenge to the local community. The loss of land and the damage to historical landmarks and wildlife habitats are just a few of the consequences of this erosion. However, the area is also home to a range of innovative and sustainable solutions, including the use of movable cabins and cottages, which are designed to be relocated in case of further erosion. As I left the Suffolk coast, I was struck by the beauty and fragility of this unique landscape, and the need for continued efforts to protect and preserve it for future generations.
Conclusion
The Suffolk coast is a unique and fragile landscape, with its stunning beaches, marshes, and heathland threatened by the constant erosion caused by climate-exacerbated storms. Despite the challenges, the area is rich in history and wildlife, with a range of historical landmarks, including the atmospheric ruins of St Andrew’s Church, and a variety of wildlife, including resident warblers and salt-bleached tree trunks. Visitors can stay in low-carbon cottages and cabins, such as the Kraken lodge at Still Southwold, and enjoy a range of activities, including walking, birdwatching, and reflexology treatments. As the area continues to face the challenges of erosion, it is essential that we continue to support sustainable and innovative solutions to protect and preserve this unique landscape for future generations.